Navigation

Vanda Anastácio
University of Lisbon

UDC 821.134.3.09-1
UDC 746.3-055.2(469)

Original scientific article

Poetry and Feminine Crafts in the Letters of the Young Marquise of Alorna (1750-1839)

Taking as a starting point the association between embroidery and language conveyed by the Greek myth of Filomela and Procne, this article examines the relationship between social status and ornaments like embroidery and lace. In order to illustrate this relationship an example is selected form the letters exchanged between the Marquise of Alorna and her Father where a connection is established between the production of these 'feminine' crafts, women's culture and womens writing, in the XVIIIth Century.

Keywords:

Embroidery; letters; Sumptuary Laws; XVIIIth Century Portuguese Poetry; Womens Writing; Marquise of Alorna (1750-1839)

Full text in Serbian only

Literature:

Manuscript sources:

Correspondence of the Marquise of Alorna preserved in:
PF = Private Archive of the Fronteira Palace, LisbonANTT = Arquivo Nacional da Torre do Tombo (National Archive)

Bibliography:

Almeida, Carlos A. Brochado de, (ed.) Rendas de bilros de Vila do Conde, Vila do Conde, Associação para a Defesa do Artesanato e Património de Vila do Conde – Câmara Municipal de Vila do Conde, 1994.

Barreira, João (org.), Arte Portuguesa. As Artes Decorativas, 2 vols., Lisboa, Edições Excelsior, 1951.

Battemberry, Michael Ariane, Fashion: The Mirror of History, Londres, Columbus Books, 1977.

Bombelles, Marquis de, Journal d'un ambassadeur de France au Portugal (1786-1788), Paris, PUF., 1979.

Crespo, Jorge, História do Corpo, Lisboa, Difel, 1990.

Dias, Luís Fernando de Carvalho, Luxo e Pragmáticas no Pensamento económico do século XVIII, separata do Boletim de Ciências Económicas da Faculdade de Direito de Coimbra, vol. IV, nºs 2-3, 1955, vol. V, nºs 1-2-3, 1956.

Freire, Anselmo Braancamp, «Artes Industriais em Portugal no século XVIII», Arquivo Histórico Português, vol. IX, Lisboa, 1914.

Gaehtgens, Thomas, W. E Krzysztof Pomian, Histoire artistique de l'Europe. Le XVIIIe siècle, Paris, Seuil, 1998.

Lage, Francisco, Luís Chaves e Paulo Ferreira, Vida e Arte do Povo Português, , Lisboa, Secretariado da Propaganda Nacional, 1940.

Madureira, Nuno Luís, Lisboa. Luxo e Distinção (1750-1830), Lisboa, Editorial Fragmentos, 1990.

Melero, Raquel Lopes, Constantino Falcon Martinez e Emilio Fernandez-Galiano, «Filomela», Diccionario de la Mitologia Clásica, vol. I, Alianza Editorial, 5ª edição, 1986, 259.

Neves, Acúrsio, Noções Históricas, Económicas e Administrativas sobre a produção e manufactura das sedas, Lisboa, Impressão Régia, 1827.

Neves, José CassianoMiscelanea Curiosa, Lisboa, s. ed., 1983.

Oliveira, Cristovão Rodrigues,Summario em que brevemente se contam algumas cousas assim ecclesiasticas como seculares que há na cidade de Lisboa, Lisboa, 1755.

Portugal, D. João de Almeida, Beschreibung der Gefängnisse von Junqueira in Portugal; mit Nachrichten von dasigen Staatsgefangenen bis 1777. Aus dem Portugiesischen von Herrn Abbé Anselm von Eckart. Herausgegeben von C. G. Murr, Nürnberg, Monath und Künstlerischen Buchhandlung, 1803.

Portugal, D. João de Almeida As Prisões da Junqueira durante o ministério do Marquês de Pombal escritas ali mesmo pelo Marquês de Alorna uma das suas vítimas publicadas por José de Sousa Amado presbítero secular, Lisboa, 1857. [reprinted: Lisbon, s. ed. 1886 and Lisbon, Frenesi, 2005]

Quicherat, J., Histoire du costume en France depuis les temps les plus reculés jusquá la fin du XVIIIe siècle, Paris, Hachette, 1875.

Sombart, Werner, Amor, Luxo e Capitalismo, Venda Nova, Bertrand, 1990. [1ª German edition: 1922].

Taxinha, Maria José e Natália Correa Guedes, O Bordado no Trajo Civil em Portugal, Lisboa, Secretaria de Estado da Cultura, Direcção Geral do Património Cultural, 1975.

Vidal-Blanchard, Jocelyne 1997 Les voies de l´élégance, Paris, Éditions de La Martinière.

Vigarello, Georges, O Limpo e o Sujo, Lisboa, Ed. Fragmentos, 1988.

Photographs by V. Anastácio

Vanda Anastácio
University of Lisbon

UDC 821.134.3.09-1
UDC 746.3-055.2(469)

Original Scientific Article

Poetry and Feminine Crafts in the Letters of the Young Marquise of Alorna (1750-1839)

Taking as a starting point the association between embroidery and language conveyed by the Greek myth of Filomela and Procne, this article examines the relationship between social status and ornaments like embroidery and lace. In order to illustrate this relationship an example is selected form the letters exchanged between the Marquise of Alorna and her Father where a connection is established between the production of these 'feminine' crafts, women's culture and womens writing, in the XVIIIth Century.

Кључне речи:

Embroidery; letters; Sumptuary Laws; XVIIIth Century Portuguese Poetry; Womens Writing; Marquise of Alorna (1750-1839)

Back to the top of the page